Hong Kong Ambivalence

I think I might be in love with Hong Kong. I think I might hate it a little bit, too. But I don't think that is really a big problem, here. Everything about this city is a study in contrasts. The greenery, sunshine, water, islands, mountains are incredibly beautiful. Sunday's trip up to the Big Buddha on the cable cars left us breathless (me, mainly, with fear) and Monica's little area of Lantau island feels like paradise. Then you walk into the city where it's crowded and dirty and fis guts are being slapped around on the street and when you see a cat, it's impossible to know whether it's been bought as a pet or for dinner.Walking down the street you might pass by the worst smell in the world (as yet unidentified but seems to eminate from the dumpling stands) or the best (also, from the dumpling stands, ironically). The people here are poor and stooped and walking with canes or driving luxury SUVs and loaded with designer labels. There seems to be no in-between. There aren't even any non-luxury cars here, as far as I have seen. The people ignore you, shove you, serve you chili-less chili chicken....or, like our server at lunch today, go the extra mile to let you try a new dish, even though its not on your set menu (fried lotus root! Yum!) and then bring you good luck buddha cards, just because they like you.

Anyway, after a day of subways, buses, cable cars, and ferries, Krisi and I are heading off to a cocktail cruise on an old junk boat called the Aqualuna. We're hoping tomorrow will include a hike, a visit to the history museum, high tea at the Peninsula hotel, and a drink with Lisa's friend Lindsay. Looks like our good luck buddha cards are working!